For the first time in over 18 years we did not spend our summer vacation in France, but instead headed to Oregon and the Sun River Resort. A Resort built in the 60s with plenty of homes and condos to choose from (or the lodge), a village center, two large swimming pools,three golf courses, putting greens, golf practice ranges, a few dozen tennis courts, a world class Spa, 29 miles of bike trails, a stable, and a marina with canoes and rafts ready to float down the slow Deschutes river.

With three bikes in the garage we spent our days riding to and fro all of our activities. Only one day in 7 did we venture into the car for a drive up to Pauline Lake and a hike to the natural hot springs on the far side. Even on that one day in the car we spent most of the day out in nature, collecting Obsedian rocks from the volanic caldera that formed the lake, lazing about in the steaming out water by the shore and hiking around the lake. 

Each morning we would take time to read in bed with our daughter squeezed between us, drink our coffee, and wait until the urge hit us to get up and move on out. With backpacks packed and saddled onto the back of our bikes we headed out for the tennis courts and the pool, or the golf range, the stables, or a picnic on the river while floating with the current. The ease and peacefulness even in the heat of summer was for the taking. No rushing, no traffic (except once in awhile on the bike) and simple living outdoors. Riding by a friends rental house we would stop by and say hello and check in.

When was the last time you dropped in on someone (let alone by bike)? It is something from the past or from the life we lived in our small village in France where everything was close by, convenient, and easy to walk or bike to. How we missed it and loved living this way again at Sun River.

So once again we were able to create what we so love, the easy simpler way of living.

If you haven't been to Sun River I highly recommend it for a family vacation, reunions, and a week of relaxation and heaven for everyone of all ages. www.sunriver-resort.com

The secret of the French and Swiss Alps is that it is so massive and there are so many ski resorts that it is actually affordable. Except for the few high end resorts, most are geared towards families, have condominiums, efficiency apartments, and large complexes to rent at affordable prices. Lift tickets are less (even with the exchange rate) and the snow is great in most places. If you happen to be in Europe in the winter check out the idea of skiing in the Alps.

For stories on our adventures in the Alps read Fantastic Swiss Alps and
.Skiing at Serre Chevalier with Club Med , The Joy of Skiing in the French Alps French style

A visit to South Africa is a mixture of emotions; exhilarating, different, similar, sad, grateful, amazing, and absolutely gorgeous. The cape area of South Africa from Capetown to East London in the Eastern Cape has some of the most gorgeous beaches, views, wide open landscapes, friendly people, Malaria Free game parks, and some dangers as well.

Safety is critical and the main watchword is don't go anywhere alone, don't stop for anyone, don't drive in the dark on long roads and remember you are in a country with millions of people who don't have jobs and food to eat and as a result they will steal and kill for something so small as a watch.

In spite of the dangers it is a wonderful country to visit and great for families. Read a few of our Blog entries on visiting South Africa.

CapeTown - A bit about CapeTown, The Penguins, Outshoorn where you can ride or stand on the egg of an Ostrich, and the wine country

The Garden Route and Western Cape, South Africa - Plettenberg Bay

New Years in South Africa - Time in the Western Cape - Glen Gariff Beach Resort/ East London

The beautiful beaches, lion parks, and game reserves all malaria free.

Our house had sold and we needed a place to stay while we waited for the money to come in. Also, we were in need of a true vacation when you are taken care of and everything is done for you. In searching our options, we priced out renting a gite, food, and entertainment. Summer prices were high and the beaches did beckon us. We took a drive over to Grande Motte , the beaches near Montpellier and checked out a studio and one bedroom apartment to rent for the week on the beach. It looked small, felt small, and most of all made us all a bit claustrophobic with the crowds and small apartment. In addition, to save money we would have to cook, clean and well to be honest "have no real vacation."

Searching the internet I checked out all inclusive clubs to north Africa, Turkey and Tunsia, but after talking with Jean, we knew we wanted to make it easier and drive somewhere. Continuing my search I hit on to the Club Med site I vicariously visit every once in a while as I always think of them as expensive. However this time I went a little deeper and decided to check out what deals they might have available. Hitting the 20 % discount button I was given a list of a variety of clubs offered at a discount. Letting my fingers do the walking I soon realized that all the beach clubs wer out of our price range, but voila! the alps had some fantastic deals. Club Med has approximately 12 Clubs just in the French, Swiss , and Italian Alps. All similar and all a bit different. In the middle of France was a horse club priced fantastically if you want a horse vacation. Remembering where we went skiing two years prior i checked out and compared Serre Chevalier and saw the offerings, the environment and the value it would offer.  Our decision now was about which of the 4 Alps clubs we wanted to go to, slight variations in activities and prices.

Another week passed and I saw the discounts continue. By the time we locked into Serre Chevalier it was two weeks prior to our arrival date and we had received a discount of 200 euro per person *(600 euro for 3 of us). All inclusive (sans transportation) including 1/2 or full day hikes with a guide and group of 10-12 people, VTT guides, escalading, rafting (for an extra fee), tennis, indoor and outdoor pools, spa (a bit extra) drinks, coffee, food, spectacle at night, and kids clubs the price was not to be beat- 1600 euro for three of us for the week. (about $2,400) with the ex`change rate at that time. If we went to the Club Med at the beach it would have been double.

My secret therefore, is if you are traveing to Europe and want a relaxing and invigorating week in the Alps, check out the Club Med- a perfect family vacation in the summer and less expensive  than staying in a hotel and eating out or even renting a gite and paying for entertainment and food.  If you are willing to wait untl 2-3 weeks ahead the discounts get better and better. From what I heard talking to the GOs their is usually space available if it is not during the high month of July 14-Aug 25 - and besides the prices are better before and after those dates as well.

OR

STAY AT A SMALL HOTEL IN THE FRENCH/SWISS ALPS

Staying at a small hotel in the Alps, hiking all day and coming home to a 5 course dinner can be just what you need! Fantastic for all ages- just make sure and buy a hiking stick or two.

Vallee de l'Abondance- Chatel, Swiss Alps Near France

After a few days vacationing in Barcelona or the Costa Brava beach resorts of Lloret de Mar and St. Felieu de Guixols head west to the village of Santa Coloma de Farners for a family day at the Magma Thermal Leisure Center in Catalonia, 20km south of Girona. Situated at the base of a major hiking area lies a long two story building, sleek in architecture both inside and out and immaculately clean and pristine. Opened in 2002, the thermal leisure area’s grand space is massive with it’s two story glass windows overlooking a grassy meadow, chestnut, oak and occasional beech trees, and the Guilleries mountains . Visiting the thermal waters provides a relaxing and playful break from hustle and bustle of Barcelona and has something for everyone from infants to seniors. The leisure center, 870 square meters of thermal water surface and 45,000 square meters of garden, includes a central spa with a temperature of 36^◦ C with a counter current river, pressurized water cascades, hydromassage benches, bubble basin and hydromassage beds all layed out in a spiral-like pool 1.5 meters deep. Set above the central spa are two hydromassage jacuzzis for 8 people with a temperature of 35^◦ C. Set below is a toddler’s playground set in a pool 5 meters wide and 30 cm deep as well as a four lane 25 meter swimming pool at 28^◦ C.

For the evenly temperate climate a water passage leads outside to a large cold water outdoor swimming pool and warm water spa with jet sprays and mushroom cascades.

If this isn’t enough anyone over 16 can enjoy the 20 person steam baths, Finnish sauna, eucalyptus steam room, contrasting showers, ice pit and heated bed rest area.

While your spouse is downstairs swimming with the kids, meander to the upper floor where the Magma Spa club is located and indulge yourself in an anti-wrinkle facial or special black pearl powder facial. Manicures, pedicures, peels, hair removals, and an assortment of massages are all available at reasonable spa prices. Then switch and let your spouse enjoy the benefits of the hot stone therapy massage or designer men and women treatments. Meanwhile the kids will be turning into fish swimming the river, tickling themselves on the hydromassage benches and bouncing from one cascade to another.

A small snack bar is available as well as a lunch buffet restaurant serving Catalonian specialties for 18 Euro, 1 to 4pm or dinner buffet Friday-Sunday from 8:30-10:30. The key however is to book your entry into the spa before or after lunch as swimsuits are not permitted in the restaurant.

At first glance reading the regulations of the spa and following the strict orders of the locker room attendant makes you feel like a school child. However, once you are inside you realize how their strict discipline of no shoes, calm voices, no eating or drinking, and entry showers keeps the place looking like it was built yesterday. Upon entering the reception area you are given an electronic bracelet which accounts for your time spent and is magnetized to open and close your locker. The Magma spa limits the number of people to enter so it never seems crowded and charges for a three hour block of time (not including spa services) at 27 Euro in high season. Each hour after is an additional 24 Euro, dissuading people from staying longer.  

Passing through an electronic turnstile you enter the changing rooms and secure a narrow private book with two doors; one to go in and one to go out of. Slipping into our bathing suits we giggle at the sanitized method they have created for entering the spa. Immediately upon exiting our booth we enter into the locker and shower room lined with double story orange lockers, sinks, open showers and private toilet stalls. Promptly an attendant dressed in nursing whites greets you, reminds you if you have flip-flops on that no shoes are allowed, shows you which locker to use and how to use the magnetic bracelet to ensure it is secure. Returning to her squeeging of the already pristine floor she points us to the glass enclosed entry shower leading to the central spa area. Never quite having understood the logic of having to shower before you enter a pool, we place our rented bath towels on the dry shelf and run through the showers barely getting our shoulders wet.

Immersing ourselves in the thermal water we soak into oblivion listening to a variety of music from Italian Opera to easy listening piped in through the state of the art sound system. Like little penguins we move in a pack trying out the hydromassage benches, the water cascades and the wave like jacuzzi. Every fifteen minutes the cascades stop and a part of the huge basin turns into a flowing river in which you turn over on your back and float away your worries. As twilight appears in the sky, the spa’s mood lightening in the pools creates an effect of floating in space, soothing the soul even more.

After a swim in the lap pool take a tour of the hamman (dry steam), wet steam, and assorted showers, wrap yourself in a towel and lounge on the swing chairs facing the gardens and mountains in the distance. It’s time to immerse yourself in a good book or just close your eyes and feel the winter sun shine through the glass windows warming your face. What a better place to be than inside a modern spa on a fall or winter’s day in Catalonia. 

Prices and Reservations;
Book a spa or beauty treatment and buffet lunch or dinner by calling Magma Booking line at +34 972843535 and also ask for entry to the Thermal Spa area. Rates run from 24 Euro in low season to 27 Euro in high season for a 3 hour pass, Children and seniors are slightly lower at 19.20 Euro. Special rates and multiple entry and season passes can also be purchased. Reservations are recommended because of its limited capacity. Bookings for the Thermal Leisure Area only can be made via the ServiCaixa system, +34 903 33 22 11 or a travel agency. Magma is open all year from 11 am to 10pm during the week and 11pm on weekends, but closed on Tuesdays and other designated closing days throughout the year. Check the website at www.magma-cat.com for details.

Staying Nearby:

Across the road from the Magma Thermal Spa is the Balneari Termes Orion Hotel and Restaurant, and is the source of the thermal waters. A prestigious establishment of 70 rooms with updated facilities set in a historical building surrounded by natural woods and gardens is a perfect choice for a peaceful stay. This Hotel offers an extensive program of personalized thermal cures under medical supervision. This hotel also has a small spa and pools and access is provided to the Magma Spa at a discount.

The few afternoons we had beautiful sunshiny days. We relaxed at the pool and soaked up the sun. In addition I decided to try the Haman (steam room) and spa and gave it mixed reviews.The Haman was built in the old Maroccon tradition with three rooms each getting progressively hotter than the previous other. Stone and tile benches, arches and a water spout for hot water to warm the room. Once you were in the Haman you felt like you were taken back in ancient times.The massages I believe are knew to the Maroccon people and aimed at the tourists. We were even somewhat surprised to see Muslim woman wearing scarves providing massages to the men (the men have to keep their bathing suits on by the way). Jean had a massage but described it as a waste of money. The women who gave it, religious and possibly scared, had her friend sit in the room the whole time for presumed �safety� , while they talked and screamed non-stop and the friend even brought lunch in and chewed loudly while the chatter never stopped. Needless to say, relaxing it was not at all. Jean canceled his next appointment and opted for a hike instead. Mine was better and I think it was because of the gender issue, even though it was not your typical relaxing massage.The one masseuse I had was terrific and the other mediocre. The masseuse also talked non-stop with a colleague at the front desk, more like screaming in Arabic, versus giving massage treatment. So much for cross-cultural training on other�s habits and needs, as somehow their training in tourist ways, completely missed the point that a massage was supposed to be relaxing, rejuvenating and a quiet and peaceful experience. We chalked it up to Morocco and the culture learning Western ways and let the hotel know about the problem that needed attention. Overall, Morocco was fascinating; we enjoyed it very much and definitely could go back another time. If you plan to go, just be safety conscious and use common sense. Fortunately, my friend Dina had given us some solid advice before we went about eating, drinking and the market and we therefore never got sick as most other tourists did, and had a fascinating time. 

Visiting an Arab Village for Mint Tea

 

One morning we took a guided walk from our hotel to a nearby Arab village. In the center of the village was a 4 star Bed and Breakfast built by a Belgium man handcrafted with the best of everything. In order to buy the property he had to build the village a mosque. Surrounding the hotel were one level houses built out of brick from mud and straw. We visited a family (see outdoor living area for mint tea and fresh baked bread. Surrounding the center room was 2 bedrooms for 5 kids and one tiny kitchen with an alcove for the cows and chickens.  

Piste de Berber, Morocco

Following the Piste de Berber (visiting the Berber People)Traveling with 6 4x4 Jeeps, we journeyed up to the Piste de Berber to see the original population of North Africa living in the Atlas Moutains. We had heard about the colorful Berber people living in the mountains and their unknown origin (perhaps from India) and were determined to see them. We had heard about their longevity, love for the sun and ecological lifestyle and wanted to investigate for ourselves.Historically, here are a few facts known about the Berber people. There are about 300 local dialects among the Berbers. Berbers are Muslims, but there are many traditional practices found among them. Since Berbers typically outnumber Arabs in rural areas, traditional practices tend to predominate there. The conversion of Berbers to Islam took centuries and in many areas Islam was not dominant until the 16th century. This has resulted in Berber Islam being somewhat atypical in its incorporation of traditional beliefs, preserving more traces of former religious practices.Of major cities in North Africa, only Marrakech has a population with a Berber identity. The Berber dominance in the mountains can be traced to the days of Arab conquests, when the Arabs took control over the cities, but left the countryside to itself. The number of Arabs being too small for a more profound occupation. Berbers in those days had the choice between living in the mountains, resisting Arab dominance, or moving into the Arab community, where Arab language and culture were dominant not unlike today.Until a few years ago, Berbers were considered to be second class (like in many societies in the West: Indians in America, Aboriginals in Australia, Lapps in Norway). For example, in the most modernized society in North Africa, Tunisia, being Berber has been (and still is to some extent) synonymous with being an illiterate peasant dressed in traditional garments.Adapted from: http://lexicorient.com/e.o/berbers.htmBerber ArchitectureBerber architecture is essentially troglodyte. Houses and mosques are constructed by digging down into the earth and rock, so that most of the accommodation is underground, with only a small area built up on the surface. The advantage of this type of building is twofold; namely, protection from the Jabal's biting winter winds, and also from the fierce summer heat. The soft rock of this area permits easy digging, and the underground rooms remain at a constantly pleasant temperature of 17�C.The plan of the troglodyte houses is fairly uniform, with a steeply sloping tunnel leading to a large courtyard at a depth of about 8 meters. From this courtyard several rooms are cut into the surrounding sandy rock; these can be used as living accommodation, stables and storage areas. Fodder for the animals or human food supplies, such as grain, can be dropped through holes in the ceiling into the rooms below. Living quarters have whitewashed walls, with shelves cut for storing possessions. Water is stored in cisterns. Oil lamps were originally used for lighting, although many of these dwellings today are supplied with electricity.From: http://www.arab.net/libya/la_berbers.htmThe way of the life of the Berber people is from sunrise to sundown. Up at 6 am in which everyone has a bit of Olive Oil for breakfast. Work in fields takes place from 6:30-10 when the sun is low in the sky. A mid morning meal is followed by rest, relaxation and doing the chores or making crafts under the cool shade. Dinner is at 5pm and bedtime soon follows as the sun sets. The kids go to local village schools for 2-4 hours a day dressed in western wear that has been traded by the villagers for their fruits and vegetables. The average Berber person who lives in the mountains lives to a minimum healthy age of 85 versus the 65 in the neighboring city of Marrakech. Is it the morning Olive Oil for breakfast, climbing up and down the mountains every day, or living with the sun that keeps them so youthful and healthy so long?Later on we learned that the tour company believes in traveling in Jeep caravans through the mountains for safety reasons with small groups of about 6 persons followed in discrete distance by other Jeeps, but still showing a certain unity and potential force if needed to help each other in case of danger or accident. At one stop as 50 children surrounded our Jeep and people started getting a little scared, we could understand why. The children, like all those in Africa are taught to beg for money or gifts. However, in Morocco they have made a huge campaign asking tourists to only provide school supplies (i.e. pens, paper, etc.) to the kids to encourage them to learn. We bought a stack of pens and Zoe-Pascale handed out pens to the begging children and learning about another cultures and their needs. On our trip, 100� s of pens were given out to the needy children we saw.

DISNEYLAND PARIS

Disneyland Paris was Zoe-Pascale highlight and to our surprise we enjoyed it more than we expected even in the morning rain. We took a morning train directly to the park and found the crowds manageable and the lines moving fast for each ride. Having grown up in Los Angeles I have probably been to Disneyland at least 40 times in my life and wasn't sure what to expect with the newer version I grew up with. Overall I applaud Disney for keeping the essence of Disneyland alive in Paris while making it even easier to access and enjoy. The design of the park was laid out exactly the same but with a larger Fantasyland for the many families with small children and extra attractions added while you waited in line. For example in, It's a Small World (our favorite) after the ride and listening to the song It's a small world at least 100 times, you visited a Lilliputian like city where the kids ran from house to house peeking in the windows of all the different countries they had just visited in the ride. We felt like we won the lottery as the experience continued when we least expected.Now that Zoe was older we were also able to spend more time in Adventureland and Tomorrowland which seemed less crowded. Overall it was Zoe's favorite and we were pleasantly surprised with the great day we all had together.

Paris was even more beautiful than Jean and I remembered it from our time living here (separately in the late 70's) when we were students. Springtime could be seen everywhere with elegant tulips making up bright lemon yellow flower beds and pink cherry blossom trees scattered throughout the city.

Paris in the Springtime

Jean and I dreamed of a week in Paris with our 6 1/2 year old Zoe-Pascale with high expectations of walking the streets of Paris as free souls as we had done in our 20's. First mistake!In traveling with Zoe-Pascale this past year we were so impressed by her ability to walk the streets of Prague, tour Budapest, visit the Souk in Morocco and travel in the south of France. Paris however was different. First it is a BIG CITY. A city that is easy to get around with the metro and walking, but nevertheless it is BIG and as a result takes longer to get from place to place and requires extra stamina. She was a trooper walking over 5km a day and managing the metro from one end of the city to the other with certain contingencies. The contingencies basically took the form of stopping at every carousel we saw and there is one at each metro stop, every park, and every toilet not to mention a drink or ice cream periodically. In asking Zoe-Pascale what she enjoyed about Paris, her reply is �the carousels on each corner, the playgrounds and parks, the Eiffel tower and Paris Disneyland." What more could a child ask for?For Zoe-Pascale it was a luxury to hangout in our rented apartment in Montparnasse and watch the French cartoons in the morning (remember we don't have TV only DVD at home).This meant the earliest we got on the metro to our destination was 10 am except the day we left for Disneyland. A stop at the first carousel was 5 minutes and a quick play in the park another 15 minutes. We finally came up with a deal that she could ride one time on each carousel she saw instead of multiple rides and then we realized how many have popped up all around Paris. But what could we do a promise is a promise.Approaching the Eiffel tower she spotted a park and bee lined right for it. An hour later we descended up to the top of the Eiffel tower which she confidently announced was completed in 1985 as told by Carmen San Diego (a cartoon detective). Nothing could change her mind as she heard it from the source. She did acquiesce later and said it was probably finished being painted in 1985 but built a bit earlier. Later we realized she probably didn't comprehend the difference between 1885 and 1985 (what is a century to a 6 year old?).

Luxembourg Gardens

Chasing Mona and VenusOn our second day we arrived at the Louvre to see the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. Interestingly Zo� was enthralled with seeing the Mona Lisa and watching her famous eyes follow her from one side of the room to the other. Was she the mysterious seductress or femme fatale? As Zoe-Pascale learned, the subject is a young Florentine woman, Monna (or Mona) Lisa, who in 1495 married the well-known figure, Francesco del Giocondo, and thus came to be known as ``La Gioconda''. The work should probably be dated during Leonardo's second Florentine period that is between 1503 and 1505From the beginning it was greatly admired and much copied, and it came to be considered the prototype of the Renaissance portrait. In the essay ``On the perfect beauty of a woman'', by the 16th-century writer Firenzuola, we learn that the slight opening of the lips at the corners of the mouth was considered in that period a sign of elegance. Thus Mona Lisa has that slight smile which enters into the gentle, delicate atmosphere pervading the whole painting. To achieve this effect, Leonardo uses the sfumato technique, a gradual dissolving of the forms themselves, continuous interaction between light and shade and an uncertain sense of the time of day. (http://www.ibilio.org/)Winding through the many halls we finally reached the grand and beautiful Venus de MiloThe "Aphrodite of Melos" otherwise known as the Venus de Milo is an ancient Greek statue and one of the most famous of the art of ancient Greek sculpture. It is believed to depict Aphrodite (called Venus by the Romans), the Greek goddess of love and beauty. It is a marble sculpture, slightly larger than life size at 203 cm (80 inches) high, but without its arms and its original plinth. From an inscription on its now-lost plinth, it is thought to be the work of Alexandros of Antioch; it was earlier mistakenly attributed to the master sculptor Praxiteles. (http://www.wikipedia/) After delving into art for the past hour it was time to find a toilette, which of course was through another long hallway at the other end of the Louvre. In a nice toilette such as found at the Louvre, Zoe would sit on the toilet and tell stories like there was no where to go and she had all the time in the world. Her imagination was full of surprises as she weaved Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo into a story with Scooby Do and Harry Potter.

Taking the Big Stroll down the Tuileries
Tuillerie Gardens, Paris

After leaving the Louvre we decided to take it easy and stroll down the Tuilerie Gardens and the Champs-Elys�es with not a care in the world and no clock to guide us.For glory and grandeur, this is the most beautiful street in the world with the French symmetrical landscaping keeping the eye trained to look down the Champs Elys�es from the Louvre to the Arch du Triomphe. The name Champs Elysees means "Elysian Fields" which indicates that someone thought this street was heaven on earth. Zoe's vision of the Champs Elys�es was from the book "Charlotte goes to Paris" a must read for every 6 year old describing Paris in the late 1800s in the days of Monet and other impressionist painters. She agreed the street was big enough to hold 6 carriages across and the buildings were beautiful as well as the outdoor cafes, but to our eye the commercialism and globalization of modern France had gone to far on the Champs Elys�es and it's elegance has been diminished as a result.The most beautiful portion of this walk however was in the Tuilerie Gardens themselves and the large fountain with old wooden boats for kids to rent. In the springtime (different than summer) it is possible to get one of the famous green iron chairs that are found throughout the parks in Paris. After obfuscating two of them, Jean and Zoe went off to sail the old wooden boats in the fountain for over an hour. I basked in the sun, watched the people go by and enjoyed relishing in the giggles of Zoe-Pascale leaning over the fountain in attempts to get her boat to sail across the pond.Traipsing down the Champs Elysees we set our eyes on the Arche de Triomphe commissioned by Napoleon who wanted it to commemorate his victory at Austerlitz, as well as show off to his new young bride Marie-Louise. In future research we found out that the monument was not finished in time for his marriage but had a painted backdrop completed for the procession. It was however, completed for his funeral. Twelve grand avenues intersect at the arch which makes it look like a giant star from above. (This is why the French call it the l'Etoile, or star, not to be confused with la Toilette). It is amazing that so many cars can traverse l'Etoile and not have multiple fender-benders. A friend told us later that if you have an accident in this particular spot, the insurance companies will split the fees 50/50, no questions asked.By the third day we shifted our expectations to see one thing a day and many carousels and playgrounds. We would be leisurely and bar all expectations and be in the moment. A much better way to travel! Luxembourg Gardens was one of our favorite with a �pay park� built to keep a child happy for hours. It was well worth the money and happiness that it brought Zoe-Pascale.The gardens were full of students, retirees, unemployed, tourists and what seemed like the entire world lazing on the great green iron chairs just as it should be in Paris. No place in the world depicts the relaxed state and quality of life as this garden. We imagined Sartre and Simon de Beauvoir sitting in these same chairs philosophizing about life as we were doing. What is life all about? How should we live our lives? How do we change the quality of our lives? and the ultimate question, How do we want to live the next half of our lives taking into consideration we have a young child and do have to bring in income?While we philosophized, Zoe dug in the dirt and gathered prehistoric rocks that she strongly believed were buried here years ago. Who were we to tell her differently?

DISNEYLAND PARIS Disneyland Paris was Zoe-Pascale highlight and to our surprise we enjoyed it more than we expected even in the morning rain. We took a morning train directly to the park and found the crowds manageable and the lines moving fast for each ride. Having grown up in Los Angeles I have probably been to Disneyland at least 40 times in my life and wasn�t sure what to expect with the newer version I grew up with. Overall I applaud Disney for keeping the essence of Disneyland alive in Paris while making it even easier to access and enjoy. The design of the park was laid out exactly the same but with a larger Fantasyland for the many families with small children and extra attractions added while you waited in line. For example in, It's a Small World (our favorite) after the ride and listening to the song It's a small world at least 100 times, you visited a Lilliputian like city where the kids ran from house to house peeking in the windows of all the different countries they had just visited in the ride. We felt like we won the lottery as the experience continued when we least expected.Now that Zoe was older we were also able to spend more time in Adventureland and Tomorrowland which seemed less crowded. Overall it was Zoe's favorite and we were pleasantly surprised with the great day we all had together.

THE UNDERGROUND STREETS OF PARIS ...� THE SEWERIf by chance you ever dropped a key or ring into a sewer in Paris there is an emergency phone number that you can call and the crew will respond with a 75% chance of recovery if the call is made within one hour. Now what other city service could be more valuable than that? Looking more into this, I found the Paris Sewer Tour at the Musee des Egouts de Paris (Museum of the Sewers of Paris).Early one morning I dragged Zoe-Pascale and Jean to explore beneath the streets of Paris and join the �Paris Walks tour of the Sewer.� Not one of the most popular walks as you can imagine. 2100 km of sewers were built between 1850 and 1920 after being planned for 50 years. The sewer includes 26 thousand manhole covers, street cleaners and sewer workers (egoutiers). It is thought to be the most efficient system in the world even though its technology has never been updated in over a century. Evidentially though the roman sewer systems that were left to rot were even more advanced during their time.Before 1970 they provided a boat ride through the sewers as part of the tour but after a bank robber got off the boat without being noticed they closed the boat tour down and now provide a museum and a short ballade through a working sewer. Zo� and Jean were not as impressed as I was but the thought of an entire underground city made for moving the waste and garbage we produce is amazing. One point in fact that Zo� did find interesting though is that there is one rat for every 3 people in the sewer even though a female produces 8 babies every 20 days. They say most of them drown in the grungy waters and the remaining hidden below.The workings of the sewers whether in Paris or our own village or town are one service we all take for granted. Something we should all be grateful for and thank our next egoutier or street sweeper when we see him or her hard at work.
Egout, The Sewers of Paris

Musee de OrsayThe most manageable and beautiful museum in all of Paris is the Mus�e d� Orsay once a train station built in 1900 for the Worlds Fair. As Paris grew the train station became too small to handle the needs of the area and was then used for a number of activities such a post office and TV film studio. In the late 70s Paris decided to turn the station into a museum which was finally opened to the public in 1986 to host the artistic creation of the western world from 1848 to 1914.Jean and I wanted to see the impressionists such as Monet, Pissarro, Cezanne, and Manet close-up. Agreeing to tag along as Charlotte from Charlotte in Paris, lived next door to Monet and was best friends with Manet�s daughter Julie. Upfront and close she saw every brushstroke, sunbeam and artistic impression of these masters. At one point she asked, �Are these real mommy, we can get so close and almost touch them.Yes, I replied they are real (wondering in my own mind if they were as we stood 2 inches from each painting. Later in the bookstore we expanded our learning and bought Charlotte in Giverney. Our next stop on the trail of great artists.Zoe like the paintings but loved the statues on the first floor. She walked around each one asking what 3-Dimensional meant overhearing us talking about it. At each statue she would stop and imitated the art piece. Her favorite was �Pan� half goat, half-person a major character from the book The Chronicles of Narnia.�It was such a pleasure to see her initiate a love of art in such a gorgeous setting and so we followed her posing at each statue throughout the hall.

Our favorite Restaurant � Le Relais de Venice son entrecote for meat eaters only!On a work trip to Paris 15 years ago, we discovered what has come to be our favorite restaurant in Paris, Le Relais de Venice, situated in an out of the way two story building near Porte Maillot. The client at that time took us to the restaurant making sure that we were there right before 7pm. Why I asked, it seems early for dinner. This restaurant is so well known by locals and business people that it fills up by 7:30 and the next sitting isn�t until 9 or so. How right he was. Each time we go we arrive at 7 and there is a long line of people waiting to get in when we leave after a mouth-watering dinner.At 7 pm we all walked into an elegant restaurant laid out with white tablecloths, crystal and mirrored walls. Tables were tightly squeezed and it was hard not to quickly become friendly with those across the way. Even 15 years ago to my delight the upstairs was reserved for non-smokers (much smaller of course) which continues today. The proprietress, a beautiful elegantly dressed woman in her 70s (who has not aged in 15 years) greeted us at the door and welcomed us to the restaurant and our waitress. Waitresses dressed in black and white uniforms with little white aprons adorned the place with smiles on their faces.The menu consists of the following:- salad- steak (thinly sliced in a fabulous sauce- frites- bread- desert of your choiceYour only choice is how you want your steak cooked; rare, moyenne, cuit, bien cuitThe surprise is that they will continue serving you as much steak and frites as you like. The deserts were superb as we shared a lemon tart (Musee's favorite) and a fromage blanc.If you get the chance to go you can get there via the metro at Porte Maillot. 271 Blvd Periere. It�s a bit difficult to find but well worth it (across from the Club Med Gym and across the street from the convention center.)

Wallace Drinking Fountains.
Wallace Fountain, Paris

300 of these Wallace fountains (yes it is an old fashion water fountain) were donated to the city by a gentleman named Wallace in the late 1800�s. The story was told that he went into a bar and asked for a glass of water. The waiter told him that it would cost him the same as a mug of beer. Appalled at the thought that you had to pay for water, he decided to do something about it. At that time evidently the water in Paris was not suited for drinking (remember the sewers were just being built) and good drinking water was scarce. As a gift to the city he designed and built over 300 beautiful fountains that still stand today albeit no water. Every time we spotted one in the city we would run up to it and test to see if any water was still spouting. To our dismay we could only look at the beautiful fountain and not get good free clean water. History does seem to repeat itself as we walked into the nearby store and paid 2 Euro for a bottle of water.

On Traveling with Child in ParisHaving an apartment in Paris was much easier with a child, but we learned a few things:- Next time we would rent an apartment near the center of the town (i.e. Luxembourg garden area) allowing us to go home for a rest in the afternoon and back out again for dinner.- We would plan to do less and chill out more- We will definitely plan to return alone to the most romantic city in the world sans child.- Pack lightly. We once again broke our rule and brought more than we needed and suffered from it as we carried our luggage up three flights of stairs in our Paris apartment.

How do you go on vacation with a six and half year old, two older parents, and two much older grandparents though very young at heart. This was the question we had to face in figuring out a vacation that would satisfy everyone’s needs. The criteria we started with were the following.

My parents wanted to go on vacation with us for two weeks and were willing to go anywhere but had some limitations on how much they could walk with my dad’s bad back. We all wanted great weather where we could swim and not die of the heat. Jean and I did not want to have to cook a meal or do a dish or have to tell Zoe-Pascale story after story in long drives in the car. Zoe-Pascale wanted everyone to be together, freedom to run around and was open to going to a mini club where she could play with other kids. Jean didn’t want to schlep suitcases in and out of the car and play tour guide day after day. I wanted everyone to have time together and time alone and not get on each others’ nerves. Jean and I wanted some free time not to have to entertain Zoé-Pascale and possibly some time alone. My parents wanted time to read and play with Zoé, but also time to read and relax by themselves. My mom wanted a few excursions and the hopes to visit with some new people (she can’t help herself) and my dad wanted just to be with us and not hold anyone back from doing anything. With all this in mind we reviewed catalogues, searched the web and narrowed it down to renting a house somewhere in Italy or going to a all inclusive club. Jean and I realized very quickly that the all inclusive club was the answer to going on vacation with three generations. No dishes, no cooking, no driving, something for everyone, independence but togetherness and freedom to do as we wished.

After searching prices, locations, and safe travel we had narrowed it down to a Club Med in Italy or a similar organization called Nouvelle Frontier Paladien which leaves from airports only in France. It is a French club that primarily has resorts in Africa and the more Eastern European countries such as Turkey and Greece. We love Club Med but found that the Paladien clubs were moin cher (less expensive) if you wanted to go for two weeks. The second week was almost half price.

Having only gone to Maroc with Nouvelle Frontier we were hoping the club they had in Crete would be a bit higher quality with more importantly better food. I figured if the food was bad, I would just loose weight. Not knowing anyone who had been there we decided to risk it and booked all of us from Marseille to Crete to the resort in Moklos in the north eastern part of the island.

Arriving at 11:00 pm after a plane and bus ride to the resort we were welcomed with a cool drink and a cold meal of Greek delicacies that made us realize the food was not going to be a problem and in fact it was going to be a treat!

Entering our little white washed bungalow with blue shutters and a view of the sea we were in heaven. We opened the doors and windows to the terrace and slept the best we had in a long time to the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks below. Dad an early bird was up at 7:30 to have coffee and read until mom joined him for breakfast a bit later. Finally at about 9 we would join and have a selection of crepes, eggs, cold cereals, all sorts of pastries and fruit, yogurt and honey, and coffee. We soon fell in to a regular routine in which mom and dad would take our towels down to the pool area and claim lounge chairs for us under the shade. We’d take Zoe-Pascale to mini-club which consisted of both swimming and an activity in the mornings from 10-12:30.

Mom, Dad, Jean and I would choose between reading, sipping a coffee Frappe (more on that later), swimming laps, joining in aqua gym, exercise class, kayaking, ocean swimming, or taking a walk to the nearby village of Moklos.

Lunch time came before we knew it and of course we couldn’t skip it. Assortments of entrees changed daily to include meat, fish, pork, turkey, chicken, vegetables as well as everyday pasta, Greek salad bar, feta cheese, tadziki (a yogurt delicacy of Greece), aubergine spread, and a spread of deserts from baklava to almond cake to yogurt and honey to fresh fruit and glace. Over lunch we would listen to Zoé’s stories of the morning and talk about life past, present and future. Meals passed slowly and casually with multiple choices and no rush and fuss. The meal always ended with Zoé suggesting we go down to the bar and have a café au lait or frappé. All of us fell in love with sitting in easy chairs facing the pool in the cool shade sipping our coffee after a sensuous lunch. Zoé had what I had learned as a child to call coffee milk. Mostly milk and a drop of coffee. After lunch we would swim and swim and swim in the pool until time for mini-club at 3:00.

Afternoon was a similar repeat of the morning with some occurrences of nap time. More Frappe’s before time to go up to the room at rest and change for dinner. Mom and Dad loved to go earlier to the bar for cocktails and sit among the people and listen to the chatter and engage in some conversation if possible with English speaking guests. The Chefs (leaders or GOs ) as they called themselves at Club Med, spoke French as the norm but there were some guests who mom found and she would chat with as well as the Chefs. We’d join them shortly and then move onto dinner which was always a surprise and wonderful as well. If you didn’t like the main course, there was always the great Greek salad, Tadziki and baklava or yogurt and honey for desert.

Every night there was an event; a spectacle, Greek dancing, a game, or entertainment of some kind. By the second week Zoe-Pascale was thoroughly engaged in the Min-club spectacle in which she had 2 minutes of her own dance. It was fantastic to watch as it was such a different experience from her ballet performance which was extremely difficult.

Besides the food our next fear was the hot, hot weather we had heard about. To our surprise and delight the weather was perfect in the high 80’s and with a sea breeze keeping the air moving, a dip in the pool and sitting in the shade, life was good. We say this as being near the ocean makes a huge difference in feeling comfortable or stifling hot.

On two different days we choose to rent a car and tour part of the island. At 160 miles long we could only hope to see a few sites and take another trip in which we stay on the other side of the island.

On our first day trip we drove along the coast to a variety of fishing villages, swam in the sea, walked among the boats, shopped a little, and visited the picturesque town of Kritsa built on a rock hill about 11 km from Agios Nikolaos. Walking down the street you can see the women of the village keeping up the old Cretan customs of weaving and crocheting. Beautiful table cloths and crocheted lace were being made in front of your eyes. At 12 Euro a meter mom decided to pass up the lace and instead bought some small leather purses and belts for gifts. I indulged in extra virgin Crete olive oil and herbs to make the great Tadziki yogurt dip that we had come to love. Down the coast we stopped at Elounda, a beautiful fishing village with a park for Zoe-Pascale to play in and a view of the island of Spinalonga, which was once a 16^th centuryVenetian fortress and later a leper colony.

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Our second visit was Knossos, an imposing palace that has been built many times over after destruction from earthquakes and volcanoes over the centuries. Greek mythology tells us that a labyrinth was built under the palace to place the half bull half man Minotaur. Searching high and low for the Minotaur statue we found it was in a museum in Athens. Meanwhile the story gets more bizarre as I read the following interpretation of the Minotaur

Minos was king of Crete, and the first ruler to control the Mediterranean Sea, which he ridded of pirates. He had with him a famed craftsman, Daedalus the Athenian, who was in exile from Athens because he had murdered his nephew (and somewhat too talented apprentice), Talos. Daedalus enjoyed much favor at the court, but he managed to fall from grace by accommodating the queen, Pasiphaë, in a request.

Minos had boasted that the gods would grant him any wish; he made all the preparations for a sacrifice to Poseidon, then prayed that a bull would emerge from the sea. Miraculously, a beautiful white bull swam ashore. Minos admired it so much that he decided to keep it, and sacrificed a different one from his herd instead.

This unwise decision annoyed Poseidon, who avenged the insult by causing queen Pasiphaë to fall madly in love with the white bull. Her request to Daedalus was that he should help her consummate this passion. He did so by building an ingenious hollow wooden cow, covered with hide and with a door on top through which she could lower herself inside. Together, they wheeled it into the pasture where the bull was kept; Daedalus helped her get in, and then discreetly withdrew. Pasiphaë was completely satisfied, but to everyone's horror, she then bore the Minotaur, a creature with a man's body but a bull's head.

Minos, annoyed in turn, sent to the oracle at Delphi to discover how he could hide this evidence of the shame to the royal family. The oracle answered that he ought to have Daedalus build a suitable cage; Minos thereupon had Daedalus build the Labyrinth, an enormous maze, and placed the Minotaur at the center of it. Minos also arranged to sacrifice young men and women to the flesh-eating Minotaur by shutting them into the Labyrinth, where they would wander, hopelessly lost, until the Minotaur caught and devoured them. http://www.minotaur-websites.com/minomyth.htm

True or not, they say the labyrinth was excavated near the palace.

The first palace was built around 2000 BC and destroyed every couple of hundred years thereafter. You wonder, like today, do we ever learn from our history of earthquakes and recognize where we are living and our vulnerability to earth’s movements.

Crete is an island full of archeological sites, rows and rows of olive trees, beautiful blue seas and gentle gracious people and to us it seemed like few crowds compared to the south of France.

Departing early on Monday morning we took the bus back to the airport and flew back to Marseille arriving with ease. We departed as my parents flew back to San Diego having great memories of a special vacation.

In reminiscing the last night about the resort my parents exclaimed that it was the most relaxing vacation they ever had. Mom read two books which she never could do at home, finished her knitting, read books to Zoé and had time to just hang out. Dad and I of course beat her and read about five each and Jean finally decided to forget reading his psychology books and began to enjoy just reading a novel as well. We had time to talk, share, and just be with each other and as importantly have enough space and alone time that we could enjoy each other. Zoe-Pascale said she wants to go back to Crete with all the family every year it was such a great vacation!!! What a testimony.

For those of you who are wanting to travel with children. Here are a few of our tips and tricks.

Swimming Pool.

Jean insisted that we only get a hotel with a pool (an indoor pool in the fall and winter). He was right. Every afternoon we would return to the hotel and take a swim and relax. This turned out to be great for everyone and a priority in picking a hotel if available.

Collection.

After a long discussion Zoe-Pascale settled on collecting certain things; a doll from the country and a patch (available in any tourist shop). She spent hours looking for the right doll that she could add to her collection with the budget we had given her.

Train, Plane, Taxi, Boat.

Our main source of entertainment was a notebook to write and draw in and colored pens. Jean would draw Zoe pictures of the local buildings, castles and scenery and she would color it for hours. This way she was building her own coloring book designed especially for her.

Visiting castles, museums, abbeys.

Zoe-Pascale was mesmerized with the audio tours available at most historic site. We found that when she had her audio tour she happily walked through the cathedral or castle listening to every word and we were able to do the same. Surprisingly this also translated to live tour guides. The key was to get up close and personal and make her feel like they were talking to her. She loved every minute and learned interesting tidbits such as; "Budapest is great, because you can live in Buda where the nicer homes are and work in Pest where the jobs are."

Finding the Petite Train in each village you visit.

Most villages throughout Europe have a small train that takes you and your children around the village or town. It provides a wonderful adventure for them and a great view of the entire city for the adults. If a train isn't available go for what my friends call the "old lady bus," which are the open air buses that will give you a tour of the city. Another great alternative.

Find the Parks.

Your first task is to find the parks nearby and when they are open. These become necessary respites for everyone including yourself. Bring a book and relax while your children play.

Tourist Offices.

 As an adult I often avoided going into tourist offices as I wanted to explore on my own. With a child this is a must. Peruse the stacks of brochures on interesting things to do and find out about an alligator park, a water slide, a doll museum or other attractions you wouldn't think of going to visit. They often can be the best hidden treasure you find.